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I double checked I'd
packed my English gaiters to hold back the mud, had my waterproof
walking boots, long socks to pull over my trousers (to stop the
ants crawling up my legs), a raincoat and most importantly some
binoculars. Yes I was ready to experience everything Uganda and
Rwanda could throw at me I thought. What I hadn't considered was my
traveling companions - a lively, slim 30 something Irish girl with
the longest stride and the biggest capacity to see, do, eat and
drink everything we could and an eager, motivated driver guide
willing to take us there!
We passed through
Entebbe, spent time in busy Kampala, drove to Kibale passing
long horned cattle, bikes carrying loads of bananas, and black
colobus monkeys en route. We tracked the chimps in Kibale forest,
climbed part way up the Rwenzori's - snow and glacier clad mountains
sitting spectacularly alongside the Queen Elizabeth National
Park.
We met and chose our live
chicken dinner at Chambura Gorge, tracked
another fascinating family of chimps and carefully inspected
and noted all the lodges, camps and hotels all along the
way. We found
giant forest hog and lions in fig tree's in Queen Elizabeth and
stood on the Congo border at several different points feeling very
daring. My Irish
companion fell sick and I spent a night on my own, recovering from
too much talking, walking, eating and drinking.
We met Kasimu Shaban -
town councilor for Lake Katwe Kabatoro Town Council who charged us
some US dollars to show us around the salt pan industry on Lake
Katwe - a devastating glimpse at the harsh life these poor people
lead. We had our boots washed, our bodies massaged
after gorilla treks and our stomachs filled with popcorn,
home baked biscuits and gently sautéed green grasshoppers which are
the top Ugandan delicacy when in season.
I felt humble sitting
hot, sweaty, muddy in the prickly, bottom stabbing undergrowth
keeping company with mountain gorilla's. I viewed 37
individuals in three treks - 5% of the world's population put
another way. We ate some of their bamboo shoots, tested
some wild fruits and were glad we didn't have to build a nest
in the top of a tree every night before crawling into bed.
We visited the
volcanoes clustered on the borders of Uganda/Rwanda and Congo
and which my companion climbed in record 2 and a half hours.
Most magical of all were
the green, green acres of rain forest with swirling
mists, splendid trees, giant ferns and snails edged by
villages, crops and people in this - the Switzerland of
Africa.
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