The Katavi Mahale Safari

Typical safaris

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Zambia
Zimbabwe
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Kenya

One of our favourite "extraordinary" safaris - a week long trip into Tanzania's remote south and western region....

Where

• The safari starts and ends in Arusha on Mondays or Thursdays, a 3 hour scenic flight into southern Tanzania

• first stop is Chada Katavi camp in Katavi National Park

• another short flight takes us to Greystoke Mahale on the edge of Lake Tanganyika

Highlights of the Katavi Mahale Safari

This week long trip offers outstanding resident game in the rarely visited and truly wild Katavi National Park with the remote forests and wild chimpanzees of Mahale on the shores of Lake Tanganyika.

Individually these two parks are rated amongst the best that we visit anywhere in Africa. 

The combination of Katavi with Mahale offers stark contrasts, diverse habitats and some wildlife experiences that you'll simply find hard to match anywhere.

In both Katavi and Mahale the camps are small with both Chada Katavi and Greystoke Mahale accommodating a maximum of 12 guests.  (If we use the Katavi Wilderness Mobile we only take up to 8 in a single exclusive group of family and friends.)

Katavi National Park

Katavi is rough, rugged and extreme in so many respects. 

• Tanzania's third largest park

• it has outstanding resident game with impressive populations of elephant (around 4000), buffalo (7000), topi (17000), zebra (20000)

• is good for giraffe, roan, sable, eland and others

• predators as good as you'll find anywhere in Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe or elsewhere in East Africa (the action is relentless towards the end of the dry season)

• before November's short-rains, a hippo population that surpasses the Luangwa and Zambezi river densities by far

• massive crocodiles stacked in caves on the Katuma River

• a 420 strong bird list...the list goes on. 

The park itself shares some of the wild habitats we see in northern Zambia, Selous and Ruaha yet it has more too.  Katavi sits within a parallel arm of the Central African Rift Valley called the Rukwa Rift, it has impressive escarpments dropping down to a valley with great seasonal lakes during the the wet season, swamps, springs, wide open grass plains and mixed woodlands.

Katavi is a classic dry season park, improving steadily from June to October.  At the end of the dry season the dormant riverbeds and remaining pools are home to huge pods of mud-wallowing hippos and cave-dwelling crocodiles.  Seeps along the rivers draw zebra, topi and gathering herds of residents which in turn attract predators in a big way.  The end of the season becomes truly chaotic.

The "green season" from around mid-November to March has its own special attractions - migrant birds, crystal clear skies with dramatic storms through the rains, still impressive game and no crowds!

The guides are outstanding and Katavi is one of the best places for fly-camping anywhere - you might not get much sleep but these are nights that you won't ever forget.

It's expensive to get into Katavi, to make the most of things it's important to go to the right spots - the guides make all the difference here so this is where we head:

Chada Camp, Katavi

• Small, stylish and comfortable.  This was Roland and Zoe Purcell's original camp in Katavi.  Now with 6 large traditional en-suite safari tents, with safari bucket showers and ash-pit eco-loos. 

• The camp is set under a towering cluster of acacias and tamarind trees on the edge of the Chada plain and includes a large mess tent and separate library. 

• If you spend 4 nights at Chada Katavi then we strongly recommend at least one fly-camping. 

The Katavi Wilderness Mobile - the right option for a group of friends

• This small and private camp is booked exclusively for a maximum of 8 guests (not available on a shared basis). Arguably the ultimate wilderness experience in East Africa.

• The camp is lightweight, truly mobile and almost constantly on the move.

• It includes 4 well equipped walk-in tents with two safari cots each, en-suite facilities attached to the rear with a short drop loo and bucket shower. Hot and cold water is available on demand. The camp has a separate dining tent with limited bar.

• This camp was designed primarily for comfortable exploration of remoter wilderness areas with the ability to pack up and move in immediate response to changes in game or other local conditions.

• This camp is usually reserved for a minimum of 4 nights to explore Paradise, the Mlele Escarpment, Chorangwa Falls and the Mpunga flood-plains. 

• There's a small pool of guides who're available to do this safari - they're amongst the best in East Africa.

• The Katavi Wilderness Mobile operates between June and mid-November only.

Mahale Mountains National Park

Greystoke Camp, Mahale

From Katavi there's little to prepare one for the huge contrast that awaits arrival in Mahale.  It's a short flight due north west over the Mahale Mountains to a small airstrip on the edge of Lake Tanganyika followed by a motorised dhow for another 90 minutes down to Kangwena beach.  This is Greystoke Mahale - nearest road point is 100km away.

Lake Tanganyika is the largest body of freshwater in Africa, a mile deep (second deepest in the world), with around 50 incoming rivers and one outgoing, a pH of around 8 and no algal growth, its waters are crystal clear - the colour of gin!  Bounded by Congo jungle on its opposite shore, the Greystoke side has this great towering Mahale range rising up around 2500m to Nkungwe Peak.  This is a seriously dramatic beach spot - white beaches, clear fresh waters and verdant forests.

Roland Purcell had a moment of truth on the the Mahale shoreline in June 1988 - in his own words, "..if I dare put an imprint on this paradise I had better get it right".  We think he did...Greystoke Camp itself was established by Roland and Zoe Purcell in the early 90's. 

A zany beach camp then, it was restyled in 2004 and remains an atmospheric and pretty eclectic chill-out spot with 6 double bandas, a generous mess and lounging shelter in the centre of the beach with a separate bar on the headland.

The Chimpanzees of Mahale

Mahale's main draw are the chimpanzees - arguably the best and most reliable place to see wild chimps anywhere in Africa. 

The mountains are believed to hold around 600 plus individuals in 3 communities of which the Mimikere, or "M" community of 54 individuals (end 2007) has been habituated since 1965. 

The chimp trekking is serious business - the day's trekking routine revolves around the 07:00 scout and tracker reports, a 08:00 briefing and scheduling of plans with guides. 

The actual trekking can be arduous within the 40 square kilometre range that the group covers in the local Kasoge forests, sometimes it's an easy stroll within minutes of camp itself. 

It's never short of excitement though - there's a daily update on the Mahale soap opera with constant leadership battles, squabbles, friendly bonds, intimate exchanges and the daily search for feeding and resting spots.  Maximum group size for the trekking is 6 clients plus ranger and guide. (There's a strict set of rules for chimp trekking and a separate packing list for Mahale....)

It's not all about chimps though - Mahale's forests, beaches and the lake are an outstanding attraction in their own right.  Lake Tanganyika contains around 350 species of fish and it's estimated that there're probably around 500 different cichlid species mostly endemic and mostly yet to be classified. With safe and bilharzia-free crystal clear waters, this is a snorkelling paradise. 

Kayaking and dhow fishing are regular afternoon pursuits - the yellow belly Kuhe are best caught on a hand line and ideally prepared with sundowners.

Mahale has around 237 birds, of which a good dozen set most twitching eyes alight.  The park also has 8 other primates and is a good spot for forest species including warthog, wild pig, antelope and leopard (the latter rarely seen but regularly heard around Greystoke). 

Nkungwe Camp, Mahale

Nkungwe is our alternate base in Mahale when Greystoke is full.  Closer to the TANAPA HQ and within similar reach to the "M" community, Nkungwe Tented Camp has 6 guest bandas.

Check availability on our Katavi Mahale Safari

Best time of the year in Katavi and Mahale

• Katavi is usually closed 2nd week February, Mahale closes 3rd week March, both reopen at the end of May - so season runs June to mid February.

• July/August/September are good months for this safari but that's also the busiest time of year in East Africa - we take bookings a year and more in advance, camps are small and available on a first come first served basis - if you're serious about this safari during peak season then book your space early.

• Best time for predators, crocs and hippos in Katavi is October and November - the rains usually start mid November.  Best birds in Katavi are from late September through the rainy season.  The Katavi skies and light for photographers is best in June.

• Mahale's chimps are probably most difficult in June and February when they're regularly quite high in the mountains; a good time to visit is  September/October/November when the chimps are often in the foothills.

• Katavi has low season rates from November to camp close in February, Mahale is low season in November/December - except Xmas and New Year period

• If you're flexible then visit in October/November/December.

Best access and understanding the logistics

• Aircraft access into Katavi and Mahale is strictly Mondays and Thursdays - even if you're on a private charter.

• The sequence is ideally Katavi first, Mahale second (unless by private charter).

• If your emphasis is on exploring Katavi then start the safari on Thursday to get 4 nights in Katavi and 3 in Mahale.  Start the trip on a Monday if you'd prefer the 4 nights in Mahale.

• The flights are expensive, so unless you have a full group to warrant the private charter we strongly recommend shared charters out of Arusha. 

• If flying from Arusha, the aircraft leaves at around 0800 so an overnight on the western side of town is recommended to suit the early start.

• Ruaha is a manageable hub for accessing Katavi but at least one overnight in Ruaha is needed - not a bad idea but choose the right spot. 

• The return from Mahale to Ruaha, Selous or DAR can be arduous - we recommend Arusha as the end point.

• There's no need for complicated logistics if you plan well in advance, if you're stuck then speak to us for solutions.

Tips and notes

• If you're doing 4 nights in Katavi then definitely speak to us about fly-camping for one night!  (A supplement applies and it must be pre-booked)

• If you're interested in local culture then let us know as we're very keen to show guests some of the local projects and initiatives in and around the villages of Usevya and Kibaoni. 

• MIMAMPI - Forest Environment of the Pimbwe - is a grass roots conservation movement that aims to keep the land buffering the Park under local village control. The trust supports community-based Forest Reserves, Village Game Scouts, as well as honey-projects, schools and local women's development groups.

• Tsetse fly are a small price to pay for outstanding wildlife in Katavi especially, and seasonally in Mahale too - we haven't found any repellent that works but we've figured out how to deal with the critters...speak to us

• Prices are based on minimum of 2 guests sharing and include full board accommodation, Park and concession Fees, all drinks (except champagne), laundry, camp and bush airstrip transfers, all safari activities.

• Children under 8 aren't permitted on this safari and the minimum age for any walking in Katavi or chimp viewing in Mahale is 12 years.

• Prices exclude gratuities, items of a personal nature, insurance, flying doctors & medical evacuation.

• We anticipate that Chimp Permit restrictions will come into effect this season - probably limiting guests to one trek during the stay at a cost of around $150 each.

• This safari is offered at a discount rate during January and February each year, speak to us about the "Green Season Beast Retreat"!  

Check availability on our Katavi Mahale Safari

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Last updated 21 February, 2008