The Wild Luangwa Safari

Typical safaris
...in...

Zambia
Zimbabwe
Botswana
Namibia
Tanzania
Kenya

Focussing on the remote and wilder areas in Zambia’s Luangwa valley - small owner-run camps, great guides, excellent game and no crowds

Where

• This safari takes us into the remoter northern areas of the South and North Luangwa National Parks, it starts and ends in Lusaka

• the exploration starts with 3 nights at Tafika Camp in the Luangwa's Nsefu sector

• followed by a 4 night walking trail combining Chikoko Tree Camp and Crocodile River Camp in the South Luangwa

• ending with a 3 night exploration of the North Luangwa at either Mwaleshi or Kutandala

Highlights

• These are small camps hosted and managed by their owners, where hospitality is first class, cuisine is outstanding, the guides are completely in touch with the bush and the game is wild and truly outstanding.

• Well suited to seasoned African visitors, old safari hands or first timers keen to get a proper taste for how the best safaris used to be done.

• This is a thorough exploration by air, in vehicles and on foot. No route marches, and very little “safari chic” – pretty simple, fairly focussed and great fun in the bush.

• Starting point is Tafika - home to John and Carol Coppinger on a broad bend of the Luangwa River just north of the Nsefu sector.

• Bryan Jackson manages Crocodile and Chikoko camps, both located in an exclusive area of the South Luangwa - no roads, pure walking with only two camps accommodating 6 guests each.

• We then explore the practically untouched North Luangwa from either the Coppinger’s Mwaleshi Camp or Rod and Guz Tether’s Kutandala.

The South Luangwa

Covering over 9000 square kilometres the South Luangwa is best known for big game - lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and hippo are abundant.

The park is notable for two endemic species, Thornicroft's Giraffe and Cookson's Wildebeest. 

The Luangwa River itself has impressive populations of hippos and crocodiles.

Night drives are a specialty throughout the park and regularly reveal leopard, civet, genet, mongoose, bushbaby, serval, porcupine and aardvark. 

The Luangwa's birdlist records over 400 species. 

The South Luangwa is renowned for it's "emerald season" safaris between November and April each year.    [...more about the South Luangwa National Park]

Tafika Camp, Nsefu Sector, South Luangwa

• This has been the permanent home of John and Carol Coppinger since 1995.

• Few camps anywhere in Africa match Tafika's pool of safari guides for their consistency.  The same names and faces appear from season to season - Bryan Jackson, Stephen Banda, Greg Patrick, Isaac Zulu and Alex Phiri.  One of the reasons why Tafika warrants repeat visits.

• Tafika Camp itself is a relaxed, unpretentious and friendly place accommodating a maximum of 12 guests.  Facilities include a central sitenje, dining and bar area with 6 spacious en-suite chalets nestled in the shade of a grove of giant leadwood trees.

• Tafika's daily routine usually revolves around morning and afternoon game drives and walks - night drives are a bonus. 

• Tafika is also well known as the base for the only permanent microlight in the Luangwa (a highly recommended optional extra).  John Coppinger has been operating these microlight trips since 1998 - they offer an outstanding opportunity for aerial photos of game, birds and the varied habitats of the South Luangwa.

• The Tafika team are intimately involved with the local Mkasanga village - visitors are encouraged to arrange a few hours to see the school, clinic and to get an appreciation for real village life.

The Chikoko Trail

• In December 1866, David Livingstone crossed the Luangwa River at Perekani, the crossing point used for Chikoko Trails today and recorded in his journal  "I will make this land better known to men that it may become one of their haunts. It is impossible to describe its luxuriance."

• The Chikoko Trail is essentially a walking trail that combines two seasonal camps just to the north of Tafika.  Both camps can be reached within a day's walk but to do the area justice we recommend a 4 night stay on the trail.

• This is a portaged trail with a National Park's Scout, a qualified and experienced Professional Safari Guide plus a tea bearer with sharp eyes in attendance - no route marches here!  The pace is leisurely and the focus is on wildlife and the Luangwa wilderness.

• The Chikoko area itself is located on the western side of the Luangwa River within the southern park - there're no roads here, just two small camps, in a fairly flat area with varied terrain and habitats, lots to game and excellent guides - with zero chance of having to mix it with crowds

Chikoko Tree Camp

• The tree camp is situated just 8km upstream from Tafika, a few gentle hours on foot ....

• Chikoko Tree Camp has three simple reed and thatch chalets built 3 metres above ground and affording excellent views through acacia woodland

Crocodile River Camp

• Crocodile River Camp also has 3 chalets imaginatively constructed of thatch and reeds – simple and perfectly comfortable.

• Camp rests beneath a grove of magnificent ebony trees, overlooking a shallow wetland. 

Notes on the Chikoko Trail

• Transfers to or from Tafika are usually done as part of the morning or afternoon activity, Crocodile River Camp is a 1 hour walk from Tafika, Chikoko Tree Camp is 2 hours walking from either.

• The tree camp is usually the first stop before the river camp on the Chikoko Trail but this sequence changes depending on local conditions at the time of the trip.

• The walking trails between camps follow a maze of animal footpaths, all gear, luggage and supplies are portaged ahead so all you need to carry is camera kit, binoculars and water. 

• Walking activities around camp in the morning and afternoons are leisurely usually lasting no more than 3 to 4 hours with a mid route tea break.

The North Luangwa

At just over 4600 square kilometres, the North Luangwa is roughly the size of the County of Cornwall in the UK and a fraction bigger than another wild favourite of ours in Tanzania - Katavi National Park. 

Yet the North Luangwa only contains a single rough track, no permanent buildings, no permanent residents and two very special small seasonal camps.  Widely recognised as one of the most isolated wildlife sanctuaries in Africa.

It differs from the South Luangwa - the great lagoon systems and ox-bow lakes of the south are replaced by open plains, mopane woodland and jesse thickets which make it ideal for grazing animals. 

You're unlikely to see the volume or variety of game that we see in the south but the North Luangwa is much wilder and has some of Zambia's largest herds of buffalo and wildebeest - it also has lots of lions.  The north park saw the first of several subsequent black rhino releases early in 2006...[find out more about the North Luangwa National Park]

Mwaleshi, North Luangwa

• John and Carol Coppinger’s outpost on the banks of the Mwaleshi River in the North Luangwa.

• This is an 8 bed seasonal bush camp open mid June to the end of October each year.

• 45’ flight from Tafika, 10’ drive from the airstrip. Thrives on its reputation as being a truly special and remarkable place.

• When you stay for 3 nights or longer there's usually an opportunity for a day trip to the Mwaleshi Falls

Kutandala, North Luangwa

• Rod and Guz Tether’s very low-key Luangwa escape – Zambia's smallest owner-operated camp accommodating only 6 clients and accessible only between mid May and the end of October each year.

• An hour long drive from the Mwaleshi airstrip this small camp is remote in every sense of the word.  It also brings true meaning to the expression "less is more". 

• The dining area, bar and library are open air with a giant Natal mahogany tree serving as the room divider.  Three simple bandas are spread out along the river bank, each with an en-suite bathroom, flush loo and hot shower. 

• Rod, a protégé of Robin Pope and John Coppinger has been guiding in the valley since 1989 and moved into the north in 1990 where he originally ran the Mwaleshi Camp. 

• Both he and Guz grew up in Zambia.  Guz studied at Ballymaloe Cookery School in Ireland and has a reputation for producing all sorts of surprises with her bush cuisine.

• Whilst walking trails are order of the day in Kutandala, a visit to Chipopoma Falls is a highlight.

Best time of the year

• This safari can start any day of the week through the season.

• The Chikoko Trail and North Luangwa camps are only accessible during the dry season between June and the end of October each year.

• The early part of the season sees crystal clear skies and cool weather (mid 20's during the day, down to around 10 at night).  Our bush fires usually start during July and the haze increases until the rains start, usually in mid November.

• Temperatures rise progressively through the season and the bush dries out - the end of October is seriously hot (day time temperatures rising to 40 degrees C and night time temperatures hardly dropping below 20 degrees). 

• Game conditions improve as the season progresses and the migrant birds start arriving in the valley early in September.

• The best balance for this safari is September to mid October - June is excellent,  the latter part of October is outstanding bu usually reserved for only the keenest wildlife enthusiasts.

Best Access

• This safari starts and ends in Lusaka which is serviced daily from Johannesburg and the UK/Europe. 

• Mfuwe, Lusaka, Livingstone and the lower Zambezi have daily scheduled connections. 

• We usually drive (2 hours) or optionally charter an aircraft (15') from Mfuwe to Tafika's Mwanya airstrip (the drive to camp is another 15'. 

• In all cases we use a light aircraft (Cessna 206) on a shared or private charter basis to access the North Luangwa and return to Mfuwe.  The flight from Tafika's Mwanya strip to Mwaleshi airstrip is 35', the return to Mfuwe is a scenic 45' flight.

Tips and notes

• Prices are based on minimum of 2 guests sharing and include full board accommodation, park fees, soft drinks, beer, house wine, laundry, all safari activities, all transfers including charter flights.

• Prices exclude gratuities, items of a personal nature, insurance.

• For a complete exploration of the Luangwa valley we recommend a 4 night extension at the start of the safari to include the bush camps in the southern sector of the South Luangwa - typically along the lines of our Luangwa Valley Explorer Safari

Check availability on our Wild Luangwa Safari

Typical safaris

Zambia | Zimbabwe | Botswana | Namibia | Tanzania | Kenya

Zambezi Site
Home | Botswana | Zambia | Zimbabwe | Namibia | Tanzania | Kenya | Contact

Last updated 22 February, 2008